On the north side of the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County, Sausalito is a quaint waterfront town, a 30-minute ferry ride (or 10-minute drive) from downtown San Francisco. Surrounding hills dotted with millionaires' houses overlook Richardson’s Bay. Hikers and bikers enjoy the adjacent Marin Headlands portion of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Tourists clamber up to Hawk Hill to get that postcard shot of the Golden Gate Bridge with them in the foreground.
Sausalito is one of the west coast's sleepy delights, all the better experienced while staying in one of the over 400 houseboats also known as “floating houses”. This name is more appropriate since there is no steering wheel or propeller. The Sausalito floating home community consists of various shapes, sizes, and values, with styles of decorations and architecture that befits the owner’s personality. The roots of the Houseboat Community lie in the re-use of abandoned boats and material after the de-commissioning of the Marin shipyards at the end of World War II. Following World War II, a lively waterfront community continued to grow out in the 60’s and early 70’s. Art studios, Venice festivals, and summer getaways from the city all added to the popularity growth.
In 1976 Fleetwood Mac stayed close to the old dockyard while recording their “Rumors” album. According to rock'n'roll folklore those recording sessions were drug-fuelled, as was the Sausalito of the 70s, when the houseboat community emerged from the flower-power era. Those who had gone to San Francisco wearing flowers in their hair for art and music had been gatecrashed by the drug drop-out crowd, squatting on vessels, refusing to pay taxes and bringing the community to the brink of eviction.
Thankfully, these days the feel of the early houseboat scene, forged from the 60s ethos of peace, love, understanding and ingenuity, has been sustained. OK, some of the funkiness, far-out art, and shocking personal touches may still exist, but there are also the remodeled, expanded, and designer styles also. The community may have derived from the 70’s counter-culture movement, but today they have well-paid jobs, probably don't take acid, and play with Xbox, not guitars, and they take pride in their expensive homes. But this is a more laidback, quieter, dreamy water-centric alternative to the city dwellers over the bridge.
While not embracing tourists and renters, renting is not excluded. We were very fortunate to find an affordable smaller one that allowed us to experience this lifestyle by participation rather than observation. Included in our rental were two kayaks and two bicycles for our use, which we found to be the typical transportation for this community.
Our living room opens up onto an attached dock area, with access to a floating dock. From this deck we can see many birds on the bay estuary, seagulls and pelicans flying overhead, who prepare to dive for tasty morsels. Harbors seals, playfully swimming around navigating the currents, occasionally disappear into a dive only to resurface, alert and looking right at us and then to dive again – for hours on end. Sunrises and sunsets provided a special show reflecting the colorful shadows of the nearby sailing boats and moorings off the water. Throughout the night, the effects of the tides going in and out could be felt as our floating house bumped against its mooring and strained against its rope restraints as through it preferred to be going out to sea.
All in all, this has been truly a unique experience and one that we will cherish and remember fondly.
Well said. Give us a physical description of the boat. Kitchen? Living room? Bedroom? Full bath? Laundry? Water pressure? Cable TV? Ha!
ReplyDeleteWords never quite convey actuality, but I will give it a go. The boat was 460 square feet and one story. Access was from an hundred yard common dock from the parking lot. Another dock, from that one, provided side access to our's and our neighbor's. Fully equipped and full size appliances in the kitchen. Eating area was a bar separating the kitchen from the living room.Living room had sofa, chair, and bookcase. Access to the back dock was through the living room with a large sliding glass door with view of the water. Toilet, sink, and shower completed the bathroom. Water pressure was great, everything flushed fine,and hot water showed up quickly. WiFi was included, but no TV. Other boats did have DISH I noticed. Heat was provided by a wall unit and seemed to do the trick. Thanks for your interest and your great comments on our postings.
DeleteVERY cool! Thanks for the overview.
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